Saturday, October 15, 2022

If this is Monday, this must be Geneva.

Time for a day trip.  Switzerland is small.  End to end, 230 miles or so from St Gallen on the east end, near Austria to Geneva on the west end, near France. The Swiss rail network is designed to for frequency and tight connections, not speed.  It is simple and easy to get from anywhere to everywhere in Switzerland without having to pay much attention to a time table.  Even better if you have the SBB app on your phone.  It will give you exact route with connections, including what platform, where to stand on the platform, and how crowed each coach is typically.

So, we head down to the train station in Bern and hop on the next train to Geneva.  An hour and 45 minutes later we're there.

The interior of SBB's newest double decker electric train.  

They have these excellent message boards on every car.  They show route, speed, location, next stops and delay (rare!) against schedule.

The rolls through the countryside to a tunnel that takes you out to Lake Leman at Lausanne. 


 From there, it's over 30 miles of views like this.



After we get off, our train departs Geneva for the Airport - the end of the line.



Geneva train station


Fun with Flags, Geneva style

We did a walking tour of Geneva.  It covered Geneva history and particulars.

Henri Dunant - founder of the Red Cross

Opera House with statue of General Dufour

Dufour helped create the Geneva Convention governing treatment of wounded and captured soldiers.  He also helped create the International Red Cross with Dunant


Geneva was Ground Zero for the protestant reformation.  There is a monument to the reformers in the city - Reformation Wall.  Not everyone was from Geneva.  John Knox, for example was Scottish. 

Guillaume Farel, Jean Calvin, Théodore de Bèze and John Knox



Hey!  A pilgrim?  Yup.  Roger Williams of Massachusetts - a reformer.


Pictorial of the Battle of Geneva in 1602.  It involved somebody dumping hot soup on the invaders.  Yes.  Soup.  Led to Geneva being independent and city of refuge.

Geneva flag is eagle from Holy Roman Empire days representing loftiness, justice and protection.  The key representing St. Peter and the keys to heaven.

Geneva City Hall


After the reformation, strict Calvinist views prevailed.  Among them, the cathedral was "undecorated".  No more fancy icons and colors outside or in.  Still a pretty impressive building, though.

St Peter's Cathedral








Another old clock tower in town, Molard Tower.  Was part of city wall system.  Renovated to 1591 appearance.

Molard Clock tower

Floral clock by the harbor.  Geneva is the home of Swiss watches, so a floral clock


If there is a lake, it will have a Swiss lake boat on it.  Some are still steam powered.


Old steam powered side-wheeler.

The Water Jet (Jet d'Eau) 



Geneva harbor.  Swiss watch companies line the waterfront.

It would have been nice to take a ferry all the way to Lausanne and then take the train back home, but the time and distance were to great for our day trip.  So, we decided to hop on a short ferry trip to and from the harbor.



The lake shore near Geneva.




Never far from mountains when in Switzerland.  These are in France, however.


We're on a boat!


National Monument - depicts Geneva entering the Swiss Federation.  The one on the right is Helvetia.  The other represents Geneva.

Something old - Tour de L'Ile clock tower (tower is from 1200's.  Most recently renovated in 1950s) and something new - Tram stop with tram.


Tourists.


Need a fancy watch?  They are all here.

Time to go back to Bern to rest up for tomorrow's excursion.

Our train back to Bern - all 16 cars of it!

And, as always, drink local!


Wednesday, October 12, 2022

Bern - not just for Bears

Problem.  We couldn't really stay in Grindelwald.  The place was sold out!  We needed a place we could hunker down for a bit if Patti wasn't good to go.  Also, we needed a place that we could use as a base for some travelling if Patti felt good to go.  Bern looked like a good target.  We found a place that we could stay five nights, close to everything.  So, off we go.

Bonus day #2.  Simple trip.  Friday. Train to Interlaken.  Train to Bern.  

Goodbye, Eiger.

Hello, Bern!

Then try to find hotel - which is only a few blocks from the train station.  We kinda went the long way.  Kinda didn't know where we were because covered sidewalks kinda blocked GPS reception.  But, eventually, we checked in.  Hotel Bären (Bears!)  Super helpful front desk manager got us an airconditioned room with a mini fridge.  Even installed the fridge herself!

A Bear!
Lots of bears!

Off to grab some lunch.  Near the train station, a Mexican place.  Really.  No Rösti this time!  And a California IPA.  Maybe just a bit homesick?


Patti takes a nap while I wander about a bit.


Parliament Building

Bern is the capital of Switzerland, right?  Not so fast.  This is tricky.  Switzerland doesn't really have a capital.  The parliament can meet anywhere, they just happen to do it in Bern and have a building for meeting and have all the Federal government institutions and departments there as well. 

Somewhat like the US, Switzerland is a federation of individual states (cantons).

National Bank



Bern is "fun with flags" crossed with "fun with fountains"

There are many colorful fountains in Bern.  All have potable water.  Some seem serious, some whimsical. 

Fountain with Samson

Fountain of Justice

The legend of the founding of Bern.  Berchtold von Zahringer decided the site for Bern and said he'd name it after the first animal he killed there.  A Bear.  Bern in German. So, bears!


Anna Seiler fountain.  Founder of first hospital in Bern.

Bagpiper fountain


Former city gate guardian.  Was St Christopher - until the reformation - when he got restyled into Samson. - and then the gate was razed to make way for an new Tram station.  The head was saved and is now in the "basement" of the train station.  



Einstein lived here!  So, a gift shop!


The famous clock, Zytglogge,  with famous clock crowd.

Cathedral of Bern - Münster


Moses Fountain - outside Münster

Münster Monastery

Aare River on south side of old city


Market in arcade across the street from our hotel



We take a walking tour on Saturday.  Local resident who organized the tours in Bern gave it.  Did an excellent job.
Started at the lower bridge where the city was founded.

The old, lower bridge.  Bern is build on a peninsula defined by a big horseshoe bend in the Aare River.


A view of the old city from the Rose Garden overlooking the river.

Münster dominates the landscape of the old city.

Messenger Fountain is located near the old bridge

Zähringer statue near Nydeggkirche, the 1346 church near the old bridge.


Our tour group heading up the peninsula.




Ubiquitous Flower Boxes


Catholic Church


City Hall

The tour stopped at the ancient animated clock, Zytglogge.  We got a good look at it several times.
If you want to be a real Bern Man, you have to pee on the side of the clock tower.  Really.  There are urinals there for the purpose.




This rooster allegedly crows the first few notes of "God Save the King".

The Lion keeps time to the hourly chime with his staff.

...as does the King after he flips the hourglass over.

This fellow hits the bell with his hammer.



Weirdest fountain of all.  Baby Eater.  This guy eats annoying children.  Used by parents to keep their kids in line!


Large tram station where gate in third iteration of eastern wall used to be.

street performers

After the tour, we headed back through the city to Münster
Behind the Münster is the Münsterplatform.  A park with a river view, games and a snack bar.  Time for a cocktail and a sandwich for dinner!  A nice "go to" spot for some outdoor happy hour!




Local beer.  Always drink local.

Aperol Sprits.  Very continental of us!

The view.


Sunday, we take a ride up the Gurtenbahn to Gurten Park.  It was a rainy day and walked around a bit dodging the rain before heading back.  There were great views of the old city from the park.





Park train at the top.  It ran for a bit before they had to stow it from the rain.


The old city runs along the peninsula surrounded by the Aare.  It runs from the parliament building at right to the small church steeple at right.



Parliment view from Gurten

Nydeggekirche near old bridge.



Cows are everywhere in Switzerland.  Here's a Highland Cow on the slopes of Gurten

Münster view from Gurten



The park at the top.  Lots of trails. Rain.  No hiking today.



Heading back down.

What next?  We headed over to the Rosengarten (rose garden) for a closer look at things









There are great views of the city from Rosengaten


Münster and the view towards Gurten





Also a good place to sit with a friend.




Mass and length vary with speed?  I don't think so!


Einstein tries explaining relativity to me. 


We walk down the hill and take a closer look at Bear Park. The bear origin story is says the founder of Bern killed a bear nearby and/or the Swiss mercenaries captured one while in Italy and took it home.  But, the city is named Bear and has kept captive bears for centuries - except when Napoleon stole them for a while.  The city bears used to be kept in pits but now have a much nicer, natural area to roam in.













The city has many newer bridges over the Aare these days and a terrific bus and tram system to take you everywhere, easily.  All included with a Swiss travel pass.

Another view of the old bridge and the Aare,




From the bear park, we walked up to Münster for a closer look and took a glance inside.

The main doors


Heaven and Hell above the door.


Then we crossed over the Aare River and took in the Bern History Museum which had a nice Einstein exhibit.


The Swiss believe in flower boxes.  They are ubiquitous and the geraniums grow like weeds!




There are literally miles of covered sidewalks in Bern.

In a residential setting

In a shopping district.  Coop convenience stores were everywhere.  Some had dining areas.

Yeah.  We ate here.  It was a bit weird.  It was really close to the hotel.  That's our excuse.




A least three days a week, these markets would spring up in town.





Next up?  Monday, day trip to Geneva.  Tuesday, day trip to Murten.